This Week’s Special

Carpaccio

Don’t you love Carpaccio! Such a simple, delicious starter. All you need is a few thin slices of tenderloin or sirloin, some Parmesan cheese, rocket salad, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and pine nuts plus maybe some truffle mayo-STOP! Don’t go there! That’s not a Carpaccio! At its best it could be carne cruda allAlbese, a dish from the Piedmonte region, but not Carpaccio.

In our supermarket we found ready-to-be-served Carpaccio (with sugar and salt) accompanied by bits of very odd cheese, pine tree nuts and Carpaccio dressing, containing rape seed oil, water, sugar, mustard, vinegar, white wine, paprika, salt, garlic, yeast, herbs and spices (not defined) and xanthan gum.

Carpaccio is something very, very different

Vittore Carpaccio was an Italian painter, born in Venice around 1460. Nearly 500 years later, in 1950, an exhibition was held in the Doge’s Palace in Venice, showing many of Carpaccio’s work. In the mean time chef Giuseppe Cipriani of Harry’s Bar was preparing a dish for one of his regular guests, the Contessa Amalia Nani Mocenigo. Her doctor had ordered her to eat uncooked food, especially raw, red meat. Most likely she suffered from anemia. The poor Contessa was used to excellent food, so something raw on a plate wasn’t very appealing. Chef Cipriani created a special dish for her, which he named after, indeed, the painter Carpaccio. Some say this was a tribute to the whites and reds as used by Carpaccio.

We suggest enjoying your Carpaccio with a glass of Pinot Grigio or a Soave. It should be a fruity, not too powerful wine. Carpaccio is about the taste of the meat. The sauce and the wine should simply support this. You could also go for a Pinot Noir, provided it has a light character.

By the way, Giuseppe Cipriani was also the creator of the Bellini, a very nice cocktail based on white peaches, named after the painter.

Here is what you need

  • 50 grams of excellent Tenderloin or Sirloin (per person) thinly sliced, cold but not frozen.
  • (Home made) Mayonnaise
  • Worcester Sauce
  • Lemon
  • White Pepper (freshly ground)
  • Milk

Take one or two spoons of mayonnaise and add one or two teaspoons of Worcester sauce, one or two teaspoons of lemon juice and white pepper. Taste and adjust. Now add milk, creating a thin sauce. Remove the meat from the refrigerator, flatten the meat if so required and transfer to a cold plate. Create a nice not too symmetrical pattern with the sauce, using a sauce bottle. Serve immediately.

Last Week’s Special

Skate with Capers

When you Google for skate with capers you will find many recipes with capers and brown butter. We think you can do better!
The trick in this recipe is to clarify butter and then deep fry the capers in the clarified butter. The result is a crunchy and salty caper with clear acidity from the brine. This of course works brilliantly with the meaty, fatty skate.
Butter is an emulsion of butterfat, water and proteins. The process of clarification means breaking down the emulsion. The goal is to have pure butterfat, which will not burn and which allows for deep-frying. The water will simply go when you warm the butter. The trick is to remove the proteins. Start by melting the butter and wait until you see the white foam and until the water is gone. Now pour the fat into a jar or cup, carefully keeping the foam in the pan. Option two is to continue warming the butter until the white foam becomes brown. Be careful not to burn it, this will ruin your butter. The now brown foam will sink to the bottom, which makes it easier to pour the butterfat in a jar or cup. If you want to be even more sure of the quality, use a cheesecloth when pouring. The idea is that using the second option will give the clarified butter a more nutty taste.
Please don’t use flour to coat the skate. Simply use a non-sticky pan and a nice combination of oil and butter.

The skate goes really well with a glass of classic Chardonnay with a touch of oak. The chardonnay comes with a velvety taste which is great with the skate and its consistency. The touch of oak combines very well with the fried capers.

Here is what you need

  • Skate wing (let’s say 200 grams for 2 persons)
  • Butter
  • Olive Oil
  • Black Pepper
  • Capers (in brine)
  • 75 grams of butter (to be clarified)

Clarify the butter and set aside. Fry the skate in a non-sticky pan for 5-10 minutes or so, depending on the size and shape. Please notice that there is more meat on one side then on the other side, so it’s not 10=5+5. Transfer the skate to a warm plate. Heat the clarified butter to frying temperature and in parallel wash the capers and dry them with kitchen paper. Fry the capers until crispy. Serve the skate with some black pepper and sprinkle the capers on top of the skate.

A Classic For You

White asparagus with Egg, Ham, Parsley and Butter

White asparagus is such a great vegetable! In this recipe we describe the classic way of serving asparagus. This way you will be able to taste the slight bitterness and sweetness of the asparagus. The butter and egg bring a feeling of velvet to your palate, which is ideal to taste the asparagus. The parsley and white pepper give a touch of sharpness to the dish.

Serve the white asparagus with a dry Muscat from the Elzas. The delicate, slightly sweet but dry taste, the hint of bitterness and the rich aromas work very well with white asparagus. Muscat to us means the smell of fresh fruit. When drinking it is if you’re tasting the original grape. Wonderful wine and wonderful combination.
We recently combined the asparagus with a Riesling (2015, Trocken, Meulenhof) from the German Mosel region. Worked very well.

Here is what you need:

  • 3 or 5 White Asparagus per person
  • 2 Eggs
  • 100 gram Ham
  • Parsley
  • Butter
  • White Pepper

Cook the white asparagus and cook or steam the eggs medium, making sure the yolk is not set but also not running. Peel the egg and cut in four. Chop the parsley. Serve the asparagus and eggs warm on a plate. Dress the plate with ham (please make sure it has a bit of fat) and butter; sprinkle the parsley over the plate. Add some white pepper.
As an alternative warm the butter and pour it gently over the asparagus.

White Asparagus with Egg, Ham and Parsley
White Asparagus with Egg, Ham and Parsley